Review: Peter Gordon's 'Dine' restaurant

Peter Gordon's 'Dine' restaurant
SkyCity Grand Hotel, Auckland, NZ

A definite highlight of my trip home to NZ at Christmas was dinner at Peter Gordon's Dine. Set in a very high ceilinged room, with minimalist but elegant decor (the hoop chandeliers are especially striking) the atmosphere was relaxed, but not casual. Brownie points to our waitress who, when my mother and the lady at the table next to us complained about the coldness of the air conditioning, went and got it turned down and then returned to explain that it might take about an hour for the raised temperature to be noticeable due to the size of the room and the fact the controls had to be changed elsewhere in the hotel. Fortunately it only took about twenty minutes, but the effort taken to keep us informed was appreciated.

The meal got off to an excellent start - my entree was Sautéed scallops and roast five-spice pork belly with rum roasted pineapple, chilli, coriander & ginger relish. The scallops were nicely cooked but I didn't think them anything special. However the Pork Belly (which I'd been a little dubious about when ordering) was amazing - delicately spiced and delicious. I've never met a piece of pork belly I liked better. The contrast of flavors with the relish was extremely effective and if there had been a pattern on the plate I'm sure I would have scraped it off. The accompaniment was a glass of Matakana Estate Pinot Gris Matakana 2004 which was very pleasant.

Mum began with the Twice-cooked crisp skinned quail on eggplant & shiitake salad with taro crisps and sweet chillied beetroot relish. The blackened skin might have offput some people but it sealed in every bit of flavor in the little bird. The nibble I had of the chillied beetroot relish was especially nice and something I'd like to try out in my own kitchen. She followed this up with Roast sumac rubbed free-range pork loin on roast baby kumara and pickled Medjool dates, with popcorn shoots and labne. From my taster I thought it pleasant, but not as outstanding as my piece of pork.

My main was Roast Cambridge duck breast on green tea noodles with tatsoi, chilli & daikon salad, vanilla cherries and lotus crisps. The meat was probably the best piece of duck breast I've ever had - meltingly tender, moist, with strong distinctive flavor. Major kudos for that one. Despite my original raised eyebrow, the green tea noodles complemented it very well (so much so I stole the idea for a dinner party I gave last fortnight), and the salad made a nicely spicy, crunchy contrast. The vanilla cherries and lotus crisps were delicious, but I must admit I thought they were unnecessary and didn't really merge as seamlessly with the rest of the course. I rather liked the cherry idea however and think they'd be a good accompaniment in some other combination. I had a glass of Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir Central Otago 2004 with the main, which was smooth and complex and a very nice match.

Sorbet with tapioca and tuile
Photo from "Dine" website

Mum finished up with Chocolate delice with chestnut parfait, wattleseed syrup cocoa shortbread and hazelnut praline, which sadly, I didn't remember to try. Despite raving about the other two courses, I must admit the dessert was my favorite of the night and the one I thought most successful taken as a whole. I had Salted yuzu, avocado & mango sorbet with passionfruit, coconut tapioca and a sesame almond tuile. Yuzu is Japanese lemon, which has a quite distinctive taste that I'm particularly fond of. The sorbet melded together a beautifully balanced range of flavor sensation - sour, savory and sweet - with an excellent consistency and texture for a sorbet. In contrast, the large balls of coconut tapioca had a sweet, fresh taste and delightful smooth bubbly texture that burst in the mouth, and which made me fall in love with tapioca once more. The little bit of crunch provided by the sesame almond tuile just added that extra special fillip to the course.

The service was very good - attentive but not overly so, and pleasantly friendly. When I was choosing a glass of wine for the dessert the waitress disrecommended my initial choice as too heavy for my dessert and recommended another from the main wine menu instead, the Pegasus Bay ‘Aria’ Riesling Waipara 2004. It was fresh, fruity and delicious and I certainly didn't regret going along with that. Although I didn't personally ask any questions about the menu, from listening to other people order, the staff were very well trained in both the wine and food areas. The only rather odd thing about the restaurant is that you have to go out into the main hotel to go to the bathroom. These were large, spotlessly clean, very modern and nicely appointed. Just a bit of a walk.

As I didn't pay it would be rude of me to repeat the cost for the meal. It was expensive, but definitely worth every cent and I highly recommend the restaurant as a 'must visit' in Auckland. I had one of the most beautifully put-together and relaxed dinners I've had in ages and next time I'm visiting family, I fully intend to go back and try the degustation menu.

Comments

[Amy]

Next time I'm in Auckland, I'm definitely going! I have Peter Gordon's World Kitchen cookbook and while I don't follow the recipes strictly, it is a great source of inspiration. The dishes you describe are truly unique.

[johanna]

oh i LOVE peter gordon! I am so mad that they closed down the sugar club in london which used to be one of my favourite restaurant. whoever thinks "fusion" food doesn't work has never eaten PG's food... i can just taste all the dishes you describe, as they're so him!
Ah! Wish I had gone with you...

[Christina]

Amy - Do! Well worth the expense. :-) I think I'm going to go buy his cookbook now.

Johanna - Yes, it's a bummer, I would have like to have gone there. Never mind, we'll have to try somewhere else - maybe Providores sometime? Especially as they have kumara, which I miss horribly!